Tag: AV2

Alta Via 2, Day 9: An Abrupt Ending

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It was a rough night of sleep last night in the rifugio. Even though I was plenty exhausted from the long, hard day yesterday, I had a really hard time falling asleep. We had a private room, but the walls in the dorms were merely suggestions and did not go up all the way to the ceiling, meaning that we could hear everything happening all around us, including the loud snorer right next door and the older American couple on the other side who carried on a conversation at full volume seeming to have no clue that everyone around could hear everything they said. (more…)

Alta Via 2, Day 8: A Roller Coaster Day on the Iron Way

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We wake up in our hotel room in San Martino di Castrozza refreshed and ready to get back on track after all the difficulties with timing and route finding yesterday. We grab breakfast, pay for the hotel and head for the funivia (cable car). To make up for lost time—and to save the legs—we take not one, but two cable cars up into the Pale di San Martino range. Ascending 3200 feet in a matter of minutes, we arrive above Rifugio Rosetta where we had intended on staying last night. The clouds in the early morning sun give the mountains an ethereal, gauzy feel. It’s good to be back on top, baby! (more…)

Alta Via 2, Day 7: Losing Our Way

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It’s hard to believe that one could wake up hungry after last night’s meal, but such is our metabolism after a solid month of hiking that it is true. And, when we go down to breakfast, we are pleased to find all of our dining mates from last night already there, as well as a full spread of breakfast pastries. We are treated to all the usuals as well as homemade bread and butter and even a giant honeycomb.  (more…)

Alta Via 2, Day 6: A Taste of Culinary Nirvana

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Today we stumbled into culinary heaven in a small hamlet in the Dolomites, the finest finish to a day of hiking one could ask for, but I’m getting ahead of myself. We start the day at Rifugio Passo Fedaia with a surprisingly good breakfast buffet, the highlight of which would be gigantic fresh coronetti marmolada, fittingly since we will walk around the famous Marmolada glacier today. (more…)

Alta Via 2, Day 3: The Real Challenge Begins!

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Breakfast is at 7 at Rifugio Geneva, and, for the first time in all of our rifugio stays this summer, there is a long line of hikers waiting for the buffet. We are on the tail end of the rush and decide to take care of our other chores first. By the time we are finished packing up and visiting the bathroom, there’s hardly a wait. This rifugio has all the breakfast standards plus hard-boiled eggs which provide a little bit of much-needed protein on these trekking days. (more…)

Alta Via 2, Day 2: A Taste of the Tyrol

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After a pleasant and full night of sleep in a relatively quiet dorm room, we wake at 6:30 to pack our bags and head down to breakfast. Though it must have rained over night, I am pleased at my first glance out the window as the range of jagged mountains that only slightly revealed itself through shifting clouds last night (and then disappeared entirely under a thick bank of clouds) is now fully visible. Breakfast is simple but adequate. The coffee is strong, and my three cups have me ready to hit the trail. (more…)

Alta Via 2, Day 1: An Auspicious Start

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For the past several nights, we have gotten way off of our trail schedule, staying up late and sleeping in past 7, which has been a nice change pace but is not super helpful when it’s time to get going again. We have a few errands to run this morning, including mailing our suitcase ahead to Feltre and picking up a few supplies for lunches for the next several days at the grocery store in town. (more…)